گردش‌گری و نفت: فارس و خوزستان

در تعطیلات سیزده روزه‌ نوروز سر از فارس و خوزستان در آوردم. خانه پدرم نزدیک تخت‌جمشید است و تخت‌جمشید برای من نماد شکست صنعت گردش‌گری است. تخت‌جمشید می‌توانست به‌تنهایی به‌اندازه نفت به اقتصاد ایران کمک کند که این‌گونه نشده است. بعد از تخت‌جمشید سر از پاسارگاد در آوردم. در شهرستان پاسارگاد به دشت کمین و تنگه بُلاغی رفتم که همان سد معروف و بحث‌برانگیز سیوند در آن‌جا در کنار مزار کوروش ساخته شد و مباحثات زیادی را در مورد زیرآب‌رفتن مقبره کوروش برانگیخت. با نزدیک شدن به سد با توضیحات یکی از همراهان متوجه شدم که پروژه تاسیس سد چندان موفق نبوده است. بنا به گفته افراد محلی قدمت سد به دهه ۱۳۴۰ باز می‌گردد که کارشناسان خارجی در آن زمان احداث سد در این منطقه را به دلیل آب‌رفتی بودن زمین و نفوذ آب به درون زمین و بالا آمدن از جایی دیگر تائید نکرده بودند. اما خوب از آن‌جا که پذیرش نظر آنان چندان معقول نیست! چراکه آنان در هر صورت خیر ما را نمی‌خواهند سد حالا احداث شده است. از کناره سد مشخص است که ارتفاع آن می‌باید خیلی بیش از ارتفاع فعلی بوده باشد اما اگر چنین می‌شده منطقه باستانی پاسارگاد زیر آب فرومی‌رفته است. لذا ارتفاع سد کمتر از حد لازم و به همین دلیل از کارایی آن هم کاسته شده است. البته نامناسب بودن زمین آن منطقه برای احداث سد وقتی در تنگه بلاغی می‌ایستی با وجود آن همه آبی که از سد رد می‌شود مشخص است. کمی آن‌طرف‌تر هم خانه فردی است که در دهه‌های ۱۳۳۰ و ۱۳۵۰ خان ایل باصری بوده و حالا تنها خرابه‌ای از آن باقی مانده است. ضرغامی. نکته جالب بقایای ویرانه‌ای است در کنار منزل او که محلی‌ها می‌گویند این‌جا در دهه سی شمسی بیمارستان بوده و این نشان از پیش‌رفته بودن سطح زندگی گروهی از مردمان این منطقه دارد. تحصیل دختران و پسران هم در زمانه او اجباری بوده است. گروهی از خوبی‌هایش می‌گویند و گروهی از بدی‌هایش. کمی‌ پایین‌تر از سد سیوند منطقه تولید ریشه محک است. گیاهی که در تولید داروهایی زیادی کاربردی دارد و خودش هم به اندازه پنی‌سیلین برای سرماخوردگی و گلودرد مفید است. تقریبا نود درصد تولیدات باغی این منطقه انگور است و لاجرم آب‌انگور. حافظیه و سعدیه در ایام نوروز غل‌غله است. سوزن بندازی زمین نمیاد. من از رفتن به این اماکن و سایر دیدنی‌های شیراز صرف نظر کردم. اما حافظ به اندازه نفت به اقتصاد ایران کمک کرده است!
اما خوزستان. گویی خوزستان با خاک عجین شده. هیچ چیز را نمی‌شد دید. باران شدیدی شروع به باریدن کرد و هوا جوری شد که اسمش را بلد نیستم. این‌جا بوی نفت می‌دهد. با ورود به اهواز اولین چیزی که در دم‌دمه صبح می‌بینی مشعل روشن نفت است. نفت و خوزستان و توسعه. هرچه در فارس تخت‌جمشید به توسعه گردش‌گری کمک نکرده! در خوزستان هم نفت بعد از گذشت بیش از ۱۰۰ سال از کشفش توسعه را نه برای ایران که حتی برای خوزستان هم به ارمغان نیاورده است. مسجد سلیمان: شهرِ اولین چاه نفت. گویی این شهر از نفت فقط اسمش را به‌ارث برده و این‌جا خبری از توسعه ناشی از نفت نیست که نیست، بلکه تصاویر همه حاکی از عقب‌ماندگی است. می‌ترسم اگر عاقبت یک اقتصاد نفتی همانند این اولین شهر نفتی باشد. یکی از گردش‌گران می‌گفت عاقبت نفتی‌شدن اقتصاد مصیبت منابع است. مصیبت یا بلای منابع یا گرفتاری نفتی را می‌توان در مسجد سلیمان لمس کرد. دومین چیزی که در خوزستان به ذهنم خطور می‌کند؟ عینک ریبن است. آشنایی من با خوزستانی‌ها به دهه شصت برمی‌گردد: با جنگ‌زده‌های هم محلی‌مان. لقبی که از دهان پدر و مادرم می‌شنیدم. می‌گویند جنگ ضعف‌های یک‌جامعه را نمایان‌تر می‌کند. هنوز در خرمشهر و آبادان بر بعضی دیوارها می‌توان آثار جنگ و جای گلوله‌ها را دید.
می‌رمو دخیل می‌بندم جمعه شب سِد عباس/ بیا و رحمی بکن به این دلی که تنهاست. هر ساعت یکی از بچه‌ها جوکی در مورد آبادنی و لاف و عینک ریبن می‌گوید. در شوشتر به آسیاب بادی زمان هخامنشی برمی‌خوریم که هنوز فردی به‌طور نمادین در آن‌جا مشغول آرد کردن گندم است. عجب سیستم پیش‌رفته‌ای، واقعا دیدنی است. شاید باید در کنار این نوشته یک فیلم هم باشد که نیست! پلو میگو و ماهی صُبور از غذاهای مورد علاقه من در خوزستان هستند. اما ظاهرا آلودگی‌های ناشی از همان نفت، عامل موهبت یا مصیبت منابع، نسل ماهی صبور را هم در سواحل ماه‌شهر روبه انقراض برده است. اما ماهی صبور اگر نیست سمبوسه که هست. سمبوسه متشکل از سیب‌زمینی و تره‌وجعفری و نان لواش. خوش‌مزه و بی‌نظیر است.

۱۸۵ Responses to “گردش‌گری و نفت: فارس و خوزستان”

  1. اونجا که گفتی تخت جمشید به تنهایی می تونست به اندازه نفت به اقتصاد ایران کمک کنه، به ذره همچین حرف بی خودی شده
    قبول نداری؟

  2. نه. قبول ندارم.

  3. سلام، سال نو بر شما مبارک. منم با محمد رضا موافقم، تخت جمشید جلوه بارز شکوه و عظمت تمدن غنی ایرانی هستش،نماد منحصر بفرد و بارز صنعت گردشگری، پتانسیل و ظرفیت بسیار بالای گردشگری در ایران در مقایسه با بسیاری از کشور ها که از رونق نسبتا خوبی هم در این زمینه برخوردار هستند گویای ارز آوری چشمگیر و قابل ملاحظه صنعت گردشگری برای ایران در مقایسه با صنعت نفت است. برای رونق این صنعت و بالفعل نمودن ظرفیت های بالقوه،اهتمام جدی برای بازنگری، اصلاح و وضع قوانین، سیاست ها، مناسبات و برنامه های موجود و جدید، ضروری است.

  4. خب من امیدوار بودم قبول داشته باشی :)
    فقط بگم که کل درآمد ترکیه از توریسم در سال ۲۰۰۹ کمی بیش از ۲۱ میلیارد دلار بوده.
    احتمالاً قبول داری که تخت جمشید نمی تونست به تنهایی از کل صنعت توریسم ترکیه بیشتر درآمد داشته باشه
    درآمد ما از نفت هم که معلومه
    پس استدلال شما چی بوده؟

  5. سلام
    استدلال من این است که نفت صرفا به اقتصاد ایران کمک نمی کند به دلیل مساله مصیبت منابع. اما توریسم چنین مساله ای ندارد.
    در ثانی تخت جمشید را نباید به هر جاذبه گردشگری دیگری مقایسه کرد. این در نوع خود بی نظیر است

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  109. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  111. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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  113. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  115. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  121. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of “neighbors” will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune “Social” is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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  134. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  137. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

  138. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  141. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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  145. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

  146. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  148. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

  149. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  152. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  154. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  156. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

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  185. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.